A bronze Buddha begun in 1252, a shrine at the top of great stone steps, and a small island of shrines and sea caves. Up to six people, by Enoden train, bus, outdoor escalator and on foot.
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu began when Minamoto no Yoriyoshi brought the god of Iwashimizu Hachimangu from Kyoto to the shore at Yuigahama. His descendant Yoritomo moved it to its present site in 1180. The approach, Wakamiya-oji, runs about 2 km in a straight line from the beach.
The Great Buddha at Kotoku-in is a National Treasure, a bronze Amida Buddha begun in 1252. For 50 yen extra you can step inside it. Nearby, Hase-dera's Kannon stands 9.18 metres tall, one of the largest wooden statues in Japan.
The Enoden line runs along the coast to Enoshima. From Katase-Enoshima Station it's 12 minutes on foot to the bronze torii, rebuilt in 1821. The street behind it climbs to Hetsumiya, part of Enoshima Shrine, founded in 1206 by Minamoto no Sanetomo.
The island is steep. The Enoshima Escar, Japan's first outdoor escalator (1959), lifts you 46 metres in about four minutes. At the top are the Samuel Cocking Garden and the Sea Candle lighthouse deck, with Mt Fuji on clear days. On the far side, the Iwaya caves are where Enoshima's worship began.
Highlights
The shrine in the morning, the Great Buddha after.
We finish at Hase Station.
The whole island, out to the caves and back.
Coming back from the caves means climbing steps again, so I leave time for breaks.
Bamboo and tea first, then the shrine, then the Great Buddha.
From Hase we can end the day, or ride on towards Enoshima.
Enoshima in the morning, the Enoden to Kamakura in the afternoon.
We finish at Kamakura Station. The Enoden one-day pass is 800 yen.
Pair Kamakura with Enoshima, one Enoden ride away.
The Enoden one-day pass, Noriorikun, costs 800 yen.
In January 2011, in my last year of junior high, I left Japan for Brisbane. I stayed until I'd finished university in March 2020. That's nine years of Australian school, uni and part-time jobs.
I speak English and Japanese without any trouble, and I don't get shy around people from other cultures. What I care about most on the day is simple: that you're having a good time.
I'm based in Yokohama. I've been photographing planes since 2009. Since moving back to Japan in 2020, photography has taken me to airports and towns all over the country. Every area I guide is somewhere I've been myself.
I have a serious kiwi fruit allergy (anaphylaxis) and react to some fruit in the rose family. So I check our food stops with the restaurants before the day. If there's anything you can't eat, tell me when you first get in touch.
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The character for eight on the plaque of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu's main hall is drawn as two doves. Toshimaya's Hato Sable takes its shape from that.
The main shrine at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu sits at the top of a big stone staircase, and the Great Buddha is on flat ground. On Enoshima the Escar takes you up, but the way back from the caves is all steps.
A painting on the ceiling of the worship hall that seems to look straight at you wherever you stand. The original was by the Edo-period painter Sakai Hoitsu, and what's there now is a copy.
On clear days, from the Sea Candle. I can't promise the weather.
Tell me your date, group size and anything you can't eat. I'll send a route and a free quote.
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